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Thread: Hayabusa Power Build Thread

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
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    Essex
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kapt. Q View Post
    As I said on smartmaniacs, a lovely project and I hope to see it around soon. I have some reservations about the strength of your rear subframe its triangulation and suspension mounting, but it's hard to make those calls from a couple of photos and no other info.

    Good luck and Cheers!
    Hey Kapt,

    The sub-frame is very rigid, i'm looking forward to attending a few meets so everyone can get a look. I've kept images quite selective as a lot of time, money and effort has gone in to the sub-frame (think 3D drawings, stress testing etc). I'll look forward to showing more in person

  2. #22
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    Oct 2014
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    Essex
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    31-12-2014

    Although not feeling too great I managed a good day working on the project.

    First job was to calibrate the CNC machine, I like to do this every few months to ensure everything is accurate. I've updated software I use also to the latest version and have a bunch more nice features I can now use

    Next up was pulling the front disc's, calipers and lines for replacement. I'm going with originals to get the car useable then replace with upgraded items once I've designed mounts etc.



    The calipers operate smooth and working great but just need cleaning up and re-painting.

    To finish, an action shot of the mess I've made before tidying up!



    More updates in the new year
    Last edited by 42Haya; 31-12-2014 at 04:14 PM. Reason: Images

  3. #23
    Great work
    looking forward to seeing this in 2015
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  4. #24
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    Apr 2009
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    Ecosse
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    Quote Originally Posted by 42Haya View Post
    Z-Cars / Smartuki came up with quite a decent subframe, the only let down (like the original frame) is the suspension. It's useless at putting any power down and a few ideas from the Kit Car manufacturers will make a big difference, that's the reason for making my own fully independent suspension, everything is adjustable also
    When is lack of traction an issue? Straight line, or corner exit (inner wheel spinning)?

  5. #25
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    Oct 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by pinger View Post
    When is lack of traction an issue? Straight line, or corner exit (inner wheel spinning)?
    With the Smartuki frame (trailing link) camber isn't adjustable and toe is hardly adjustable (moving the whole lower suspension arm) so getting a decent setup for either straight line or cornering would be an issue with the power levels involved.

    Inner wheel spinning can be helped with a decent differential (LSD / Torsen), but it's the contact patch during the suspension travel which is the problem.

    If you have a Google search for Sinister Sand Sports their subframe looks good and inspired the direction I went in.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by 42Haya View Post
    With the Smartuki frame (trailing link) camber isn't adjustable and toe is hardly adjustable (moving the whole lower suspension arm) so getting a decent setup for either straight line or cornering would be an issue with the power levels involved.
    If it is a pure trailing arm set up than wheel camber is synonymous with roll angle - not good.

    Quote Originally Posted by 42Haya View Post
    Inner wheel spinning can be helped with a decent differential (LSD / Torsen), but it's the contact patch during the suspension travel which is the problem.
    The height bike engines end up being installed at doesn't help - too high, but hard to avoid given the lack of space.

  7. #27
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    Oct 2014
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    Essex
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    Quote Originally Posted by pinger View Post
    If it is a pure trailing arm set up than wheel camber is synonymous with roll angle - not good.



    The height bike engines end up being installed at doesn't help - too high, but hard to avoid given the lack of space.
    I totally agree, it's because the gearbox is literally bolted to the bottom of the engine then the drive needs to be directed towards the middle of the car to a differential.

    The height in terms of centre of gravity isn't terrible as the whole setup (engine, gearbox, subframe, differential) is lighter than the original. I could of mounted it a bit lower but I wanted equal length driveshafts.

    To be honest though.. A lot of it is throttle bodies and air box

    I'll try and grab some cheap scales and weigh the new subframe and the original subframe to compare

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Hereford
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    178
    The most successful conversions I've seen put the engine next to the driver. In an ideal world rose joints on control arms should be horizontal not vertical, but things never work out ideally

    Can't wait to see this beast run,

    Cheers!

  9. #29
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    Dec 2014
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    kent
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    run a quaife diff its the only way mine is 200bhp and is perfect

  10. #30
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    Oct 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kapt. Q View Post
    The most successful conversions I've seen put the engine next to the driver. In an ideal world rose joints on control arms should be horizontal not vertical, but things never work out ideally

    Can't wait to see this beast run,

    Cheers!
    Haha of course, but someone where's the fun in it if nobody else can join you in the car?

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