Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 21 to 24 of 24

Thread: 450-452 subframe - Converting a Roadster to electric power

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    uk
    Posts
    920
    Quote Originally Posted by tolsen View Post
    Two thicker cables for power and four thinner cables for quadrature output. The signal allows engine control unit to work out angular position, rotational speed and direction of rotation.[/COLOR]
    The four thinner cables are probably Phase A, Phase B (as you've shown) and a Z (or index) channel (To determine drum 'start' position) and a common 'ground'

    You can determine clock and counter clock and speed with just A B and a common, but you cannot determine a start position without this 3rd Z channel output.
    You're so money supermarket and you don't even know it!

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Posts
    47
    Greetings And, Merry New Year, as to the original question, are the rear sub frames the same? As mentioned before the subframe that supports the hubs and wheels, on a fortwo, has attach mounts for an 'anti roll' bar, the Roady one does not. So you could put a 450 lower subframe into a 452 but not the other way round. The main rear subframe is similar but not really interchangeable as the hand brake cable mounting points are different. 450 mounts vertically, 452 horizontally. Cheers, Ian.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Cambridgeshire
    Posts
    6
    I think I can say I'm fully underway now, I've got a subframe thanks to David 42Haya and a rather dodgy gearbox from ebay as well as the motor, controller etc that I already had. Just a clutch spline, drive shafts, gearbox mount and then a motor faceplate to make and I could start screwing bits together. I now fully understand how the gearbox works and the selection control looks like it's going to be easy, the motor is a very simple 12v motor with an Phase A, B as suggested although it doesn't need Z because the sensor on the end of the drum is what seems to be a variable resistor 500R to 5k to determine the position. Took the gear sensor out of the gearbox and 2 very nice slithers of metal came stuck to the end of it.. so the gearbox may need work!?.
    For anyone interested I've started a blog 'roadster-ev.blogspot.com', partly ramble but hopefully will contain some useful stuff as time goes on. I might draw this up in CAD as it's easier to do with bits laying around and it might be useful later on.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Essex
    Posts
    304
    Quote Originally Posted by crispy View Post
    I've got a subframe thanks to David 42Haya
    It was very nice to meet you and i'm very happy it's being used in a very decent project! Good luck with the build and keep us all updated
    Follow the Hayabusa powered Smart Fortwo build here

    YouTube Video's Here

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •