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Thread: CDI thermostat (Euro5)

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    Burnley
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    I was thinking a bi-metal flap valve as it will take PWM and progressively open/close depending on mark/space of PWM

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Is it correct that this modern thermostat does not have any check valve in its disc closing element?



    If that is so, how are you supposed to bleed pipe from thermostat housing outlet to top of radiator? Vacuum bleed or by opening thermostat using diagnostics to heat to wax?
    Drives a Smart Cdi - 65 to 85 MPG

  3. #43
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    Mar 2012
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    Burnley
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    There is a bypass round the sealing part in the plastics of the top hose half. I had to drill a small hole in my new thermostat as it effectively blocked that bypass.

    I took it for a hard run today. Temperature slowly crept up to 80c then it stopped rising and stayed there so the thermostat is doing what I think it should it is just that there is not enough heat generally to run the cabin heater and heat the engine. I am going to prove this by clamping the top hose completely and see how hot it gets just generally doing what I do with no long trips.

  4. #44
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    Nov 2007
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    There should be more than enough heat since about 40 kW is lost as heat when running on full steam.
    Mine gets up to operating temperature (85C) after only a 4 km drive at normal A road speed. If yours takes significantly longer, then there is a problem with your thermostat.
    Drives a Smart Cdi - 65 to 85 MPG

  5. #45
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    Mar 2012
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    Burnley
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    Quote Originally Posted by tolsen View Post
    There should be more than enough heat since about 40 kW is lost as heat when running on full steam.
    Mine gets up to operating temperature (85C) after only a 4 km drive at normal A road speed. If yours takes significantly longer, then there is a problem with your thermostat.
    Clamping the top hose will prove or disprove that.

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