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Thread: Actuator motor

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Brierley Hill
    Posts
    8

    Actuator motor

    My smart car broke down on me i discovered that the 40 amp fuse had blown and got the dreaded 3 lines on my dashboard i changed the fuse and then had only 1 line on the dash i looked underneath the car and discovered the actuator cable had rubbed against the chassis and this is what proberly blew the fuse i then removed the actuator and discovered the actuator motor was not working proberly burnt out i replaced the actuator and motor with a working one and discovered the car would start but no drive and the actuator motor
    Is trying to continuely push the actuator rod out and disengage the clutch hence no drive i disconnected the plug to the actuator as the motor was getting hot and would obviously burn out it seems to me there is no signal to tell the motor to retract the actuator and then stop till next single if that makes sense anyone got any ideas please
    Paul

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Burnley
    Posts
    1,272
    You need a Star diagnostic if you are sure that you checked the wiring and all is good. You need a Star diag anyway once you have had the clutch actuator off, there are few ways to teach it other than that.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    BANCHORY
    Posts
    3,150
    No no no. No need to teach clutch actuator with Star or other diagnostics.
    What you should do is to check wiring from engine control unit to transmission and carry out required repairs.

    In case of cable chafing damage or cable break you will find the copper strands have probably turned all black so no solder will flow and wet the copper making a repair difficult.
    Get some brick cleaner from B&Q. Contains about 9- 12% hydrochloric acid. The acid will turn black oxidized copper bright so proper repairs can be done.

    You will need the pin out to check the wiring.

    Connectors are viewed from the end. First column is ECU pins. Third column shows pins on sensors or actuators. T/M = transmission gear change motor. Clutch = clutch actuator.

    It is best using a 21 Watt to 50 Watt test lamp and 12 volt battery when checking continuity. Testing simply using a multimeter may fail to detect faults as a cable may test OK even when only a single strand remains.
    Drives a Smart Cdi - 65 to 85 MPG

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    the Netherlands
    Posts
    215
    The clutch actuator,
    Look in the connector you see pin-numbers 1,2,3 and 4,5,6.

    Connect 12 volt , the + on pin-number 3 and the - on pin-number 6 and try to pusch the rod inwards.

    If the rod wont go in, change the - on pin-mumber 3 and the + on pin-number 6 and pusch the rod inwards.

    If the rod is inwards. disconnect the 12 volt and fitt the clutch actuator back on the gearbox.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Brierley Hill
    Posts
    8
    I have had the actuator on the bench and put power to the pins 6 and 3 and reversed them and the actuator pushes in and out but when plugged into the car it is constantly pushing the actuator out and the motor is getting hot because it keeps trying to push out the rod if that makes sense

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Brierley Hill
    Posts
    8
    Hi I have got another loom of ebay on its way so I can test and try that thanks for all your info

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    the Netherlands
    Posts
    215
    Before you fitt the clutch actuator , dont turn the key to position 1

    First you fitt/adjust the clutch actuator, then connect the connector to the clutch actuator

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Brierley Hill
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by ossy View Post
    Before you fitt the clutch actuator , dont turn the key to position 1

    First you fitt/adjust the clutch actuator, then connect the connector to the clutch actuator
    I pushed the actuator rod in and it clicked in and stayed in fitted back on car and when ignition is on it pushes out the rod and disengages the clutch I can select gears but when I try to drive off the clutch stays disengaged with the rod out and the actuator motor starts to get hot

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    BANCHORY
    Posts
    3,150
    ECU faulty.
    Drives a Smart Cdi - 65 to 85 MPG

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Burnley
    Posts
    1,272
    Quote Originally Posted by tolsen View Post
    ECU faulty.
    I fully concur.

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