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Thread: Front cooling fan

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    BANCHORY
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    Did the checks with cold engine. Soldered cable ends and pushed them into connector for thermostat. Started engine. Connected WinStar so I could read out coolant temperature. Turned potentiometer until fan cut in. Did same until fan cut out. Radiator fan is very quiet so I had to stand outside the car to hear it running.
    Drives a Smart Cdi - 65 to 85 MPG

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
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    uk
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    Quote Originally Posted by tolsen View Post
    Radiator fan is very quiet so I had to stand outside the car to hear it running.
    Don’t you mean your tractor engine was so noisy ?
    You're so money supermarket and you don't even know it!

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by reinaldo_is_spam View Post
    Don’t you mean your tractor engine was so noisy ?
    My wee diesel is hardly audible at idle.
    Drives a Smart Cdi - 65 to 85 MPG

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    Burnley
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    1,242
    Quote Originally Posted by tolsen View Post
    My wee diesel is hardly audible at idle.
    Hmm, it must be broken then.

  5. #35
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    Nov 2007
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    Mine is quieter than a petrol 450 at any speed.
    I drove a petrol 450 owner on a sightseeing trip around here recently and he was just amazed how quiet mine is.

    Last edited by tolsen; 25-10-2017 at 11:44 PM.

  6. #36
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    Mar 2012
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    Burnley
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    That's making some bloody awful noises.


    Oh, wait. Sorry, it's the radio.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Mine also has a soft comfortable ride thanks to standard Roadster springs on rear axle and rubber cushions below my front China springs.
    Drives a Smart Cdi - 65 to 85 MPG

  8. #38
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    Nov 2007
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    And I used elastics from my old military underpants to fix the saggy pocket nets:



    Drives a Smart Cdi - 65 to 85 MPG

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lewes
    Posts
    698
    Had a chance to put a 1K ohm potentiometer on my car this morning, in between the rain showers! Ran the engine till it showed 40 degrees (1 blob). Turn off, removed connector to the temperature sensor. Put the two wires from the potentiometer in the wiring side of the connector. Turned on the ignition, but did not start the car. The dashboard display showed 80 degrees (3 blobs). Turned the potentiometer to increase the resistance and the dash display went down to 40 degrees (1 blob). Turn the potentiometer slowly to decrease the resistance and gradually brought the display to 100 degrees (4 blobs). Little bit more movement brought the fan on.
    So I am at a loss as to why the fan did not come on during the period the temperature gauge showed 120 degrees (5 blobs).

    Increased the resistance again, and started the engine. Decreased the resistance and got the fan to turn on. Star reported the coolant to be 105 Degrees.

    So in line with Tolsen's post above.

    Next thing on the list is to put some dye in the coolant and UV test to find the leak - it obviously has a very slight one somewhere because it appears to take 6 months or so to throw the "hissy fit" with the air lock / overheat. That's for another day - Bonfire celebrations in Lewes get in the way today!

    John

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Ecosse
    Posts
    3,478
    Something Ford's 3 litre V6 (Essex) engine was fabled for. The siting of the temp sensor was very high in the cooling system. If any coolant was lost the sensor would no longer be in contact with the coolant and its voice was lost - so to speak.
    Might your temp sensor have lost 'contact' with the coolant when the coolant level dropped?

    edit PS.
    Just re-read the first few posts. Some temp sensing was obviously present so above scenario less likely. I'll leave the post though as it can happen with some engines, possibly even the Suprex (the temp sensor is the bleed point) though probably not in your case.
    Last edited by pinger; 04-11-2017 at 02:52 PM.

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