Page 2 of 6 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 57

Thread: Wheel Nut Sheared - Advice

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Ecosse
    Posts
    3,629
    Hammer and chisel - removes both the shoulder and the threaded portion.
    Drilling is full of potential problems and a last resort.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    London
    Posts
    403
    Quote Originally Posted by pinger View Post
    Hammer and chisel - removes both the shoulder and the threaded portion.
    Drilling is full of potential problems and a last resort.
    Except it took minutes using the electric torque wrench which probably operates at about 600 impacts per minute

    And it had the complete bolt head to work against

    Compare that with me, with a chisel, at an angle - I doubt I'd ever get anywhere near releasing it
    Paul
    Pure 2000 W, LHD 599cc - Engine Rebuilt Feb 08 - sold
    Passion 2000 W, LHD 599cc - Engine Rebuilt Mar 09 - sold
    Passion 1998 T, LHD 599cc - Engine Rebuilt Apr 10 - sold
    Cabrio 2001 Y, LHD 599cc - Engine Rebuilt Jul 10 Replaced Oct 16

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Ecosse
    Posts
    3,629
    Quote Originally Posted by UKKid35 View Post

    Compare that with me, with a chisel, at an angle - I doubt I'd ever get anywhere near releasing it
    I did - twice over.
    And, you still don't know if the thread is seized. If it is, and you remove all of the remaining head it will have to be drilled through to remove and possibly re-tapped. And all the swarf will find its way to the ABS sensor requiring hub removal to clean. Chisel first, drilling as last resort.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    uk
    Posts
    870
    Quote Originally Posted by UKKid35 View Post
    Nevertheless, I think your suggestion is what I am going to have to use, with the exception of the bolt extractor

    Once I have drilled to the level of the thread, and expanded the hole using a suitably large bit, the shoulder should fall off

    Then I can take the wheel off, and the remaining stud will come out by hand (as long as I leave it to cool down and don't burn myself)

    The problem is whether I have drill bits that are good enough, and whether I can drill by hand accurately enough
    Buy some LEFT hand drill bits , you can buy an ascending pack for less than a tenner, and you might find the heat generated during drilling will set the threads running anyway... in the direction you want it to go

    Using normal drill bits will just make it worse.
    You're so money supermarket and you don't even know it!

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    BANCHORY
    Posts
    3,325
    Use my method. Works each time. Drill and chamfer out a suitably large nut and MIG weld that to whatever remains of wheelbolt. The heat will free bolt so it will come out with ease. Make sure to centre nut in case wheel has a deep recess.
    Drives a Smart Cdi - 65 to 85 MPG

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    BANCHORY
    Posts
    3,325
    Adding one of my favourite photos just to illustrate my sheared bolt extraction method:

    Above bolt used to hold a clutch actuator in place hence size M6. I have used same method to remove dozens of rounded keyed locking wheel bolts given up by garages.
    Drives a Smart Cdi - 65 to 85 MPG

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    BANCHORY
    Posts
    3,325
    More advice:
    1) Use a drill guide if drilling plus use coolant and drill at slow speed.
    2) The threads (if a 450 or 451) will be too hard for any tap to clean up so do not attempt. You will only damage or break a costly tap.
    Drives a Smart Cdi - 65 to 85 MPG

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    London
    Posts
    403




    Paul
    Pure 2000 W, LHD 599cc - Engine Rebuilt Feb 08 - sold
    Passion 2000 W, LHD 599cc - Engine Rebuilt Mar 09 - sold
    Passion 1998 T, LHD 599cc - Engine Rebuilt Apr 10 - sold
    Cabrio 2001 Y, LHD 599cc - Engine Rebuilt Jul 10 Replaced Oct 16

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    uk
    Posts
    870
    Quote Originally Posted by UKKid35 View Post




    Drill it already , with left hand bits

    You’d have the job done by now
    You're so money supermarket and you don't even know it!

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Bury Lancs
    Posts
    149
    Quote Originally Posted by reinaldo_is_spam View Post
    Drill it already , with left hand bits

    You’d have the job done by now
    I'd doubt that a left hand drill would eventually the remnants of a bolt that was tight enough for its head to shear off before undoing. I'd drill the head off with a normal right hand HSS drill .... obviously being careful not to drill that deep that I got as far as the wheel. Once it's had its head removed, the rest of the bolt should just unscrew with Vicegrips.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •